Have you thought of spending a week, or maybe a winter, on a remote Caribbean island? Perhaps even the island where Dean’s Blue Hole (featured in the Netflix documentary “The Deepest Breath”) is located? Consider visiting Long Island, Bahamas. You’ll definitely want to know what to expect, and if you’re prepared to really “chill out” it might be just for you!
Where is Long Island (it’s not New York!)?
The southern most inhabited Bahamian island, Long Island is true to its namesake. It’s about 130 km (80 miles) long and 6 km (4 miles) wide at its widest point. There are many parts of the island which are much narrower! Driving from one end to the other takes over 2 hours. Of course, that’s only if you can resist stopping along the way, which definitely takes out much of the fun! The Tropic of Cancer runs through the northern part of the island. Be sure to stop and take a photo by this landmark sign on the side of the road.
With a total population of approximately 3,000 people the island is comprised of numerous “settlements” of island folk and plenty of foreigners who enjoy living the island vibe. With only one main road running the entire length of the island (The Queen’s Highway), it’s easy to navigate and you’ll never get lost! Locals describe the island’s geography in regions (south, mid and north island).
Transportation is road-based and a rental car is the best option. There are a few local car rental agencies. We had a decent vehicle (considering where these cars are driven – dirt roads, beaches, etc) and great customer service. We used Unique Wheels Rental. Our reservation was made online in advance, the vehicle was waiting for us at the airport parking lot, and we were off! Only a few private taxi services exist but they’re very limited and difficult to rely on for extended periods of time. Besides, having your own car makes the exploring much more fun!
Driving Tips: Driving in Bahamas is on the LEFT hand side of the road. Always beware of pedestrians along the Queen’s Highway. There are no sidewalks and often very little shoulder space. Also, along with people, the muttons (sheep) also use the roadways, especially in the south island. Just beware, take your time and enjoy!
Getting to Long Island
The simplest way is to fly from Nassau, or perhaps another Bahamian island if you happen to be in the neighbourhood! There are two airports on Long Island. One to the south, Deadman’s Cay Airport (very poor name choice!). This has frequent flights served by BahamasAir and other local carriers. It’s tiny and rustic but very friendly islanders will be there to greet you. The other airport is in the north end. Stella Maris Airport has more limited commercial flights and caters mainly to charter services.
Travelling to Long Island by water is also a great option. There are a handful of lovely marinas and, although we did not experience the island this way, I’m sure it would be great. The lively bars and restaurants dotting the island have their share of moorings and leisure-loving boaters visiting the island.
Where to stay
North vs South island?
Depending on which part of the island you want to be on, Long Island has a variety of accommodations. The north end has the large, sprawling Stella Maris Resort Club. Along with great restaurants, pools and water activities, there’s also a lovely beach. Other lower key accommodations dot the north end as well. Choose your vibe!
The south island becomes a little more remote the further south you drive. The beaches in the south are even better and more expansive than the north (if you can even imagine that!). A few newer developments are located in the south, not far from Clarence Town and Dean’s Blue Hole. Here you’ll find a variety of nearby accommodations including villa rentals and small hotels.
We chose to stay mid-island, and for us, this was perfect! It provided us the flexibility to easily explore the island in either direction. We rented an oceanfront home from Airbnb. It was situated on a large bay on the east (windward side) of Salt Pond, near McKann’s Settlement. We really enjoyed the accessibility to the weekly Farmer’s Market, the Hillside Food Supply store (best grocery store on the island, in our opinion), the Island Tourist Office and other great resources. Bear in mind, no matter where you need to get to, you are likely driving, or at a minimum riding a bicycle!
Leeward vs. windward side?
This is a personal choice! Pros and cons…… The two sides of the island are quite unique. Leeward (west side) you will find sandy, very gently sloping beaches and spectacular sunsets. Along with this, at certain times of day more than others, come the bugs!
Windward (east side) is more rocky and gorgeous cliffs with numerous outcrops. There are still many stunning beaches as well. Be aware that this side has a relentless wind which, although it keeps the bugs away, it can sometimes be exhausting.
The wonderful part of Long Island is that because it’s so narrow and uninhabited, you can easily go from one side to the other to enjoy the dichotomy.
Travel Tip: When booking an accommodation, input the address to Google Maps and consider all views (satellite, terrain, street view, etc) to be aware of the surrounding area and ensure it meets your travel needs.
Adventurous activities
Dean’s Blue hole
Have you watched the Netflix documentary The Deepest Breath? If so, you’ll be very familiar with Dean’s Blue Hole, the second deepest blue hole in the world. More than 200 meters (600 ft) straight down into the ocean floor. It’s a spectacular site and a daunting experience. Located just meters from the beach, it’s completely accessible to all who dare to swim across it or go down and explore. Be brave, it feels ominous but go for it! Be your own “adventure control board”!
Hiking
What views and experiences we had hiking on Long Island! We were fortunate enough to meet a wonderful neighbour in our little bay, a northerner who spends his winters in his pristine island cabin. He explores voraciously and knows every mile of shoreline from north to south. Our mutual joy for walking was an absolute gift to us. Taking us under his wing, we had the privilege of being escorted to various parts of the island multiple times a week. Every hike was a new adventure!
Some trails are actually “somewhat” marked on Google Maps as well as through the Long Island tourism office. Albeit it’s sometimes difficult to find the side roads/entrances to some of the trails, once on them, it’s a matter of mostly just “following the shoreline”. Our hikes were diverse! Many rocks, cliffs, underbrush, beaches and caves to explore. No two were ever the same and the views, sense of freedom and exhausting exercise were out of this world. If you don’t mind very little structure or civilization, this is the place for you!
Swimming/Snorkelling/Scuba diving
If you love water sports, you will love Long Island! A little word of caution….. as the locals will tell you, it’s a bit “sharky” in some areas. Be sure to ask about certain areas before venturing out too far.
The crystal blue waters are absolutely magnetizing. We took our own masks and snorkels, and were definitely happy to have them. Although we chose not to scuba, snorkelling from the shores was simply beautiful wherever we ventured. The entire island is filled with great coral reef locations, you will not be disappointed!
Bone fishing
We didn’t experience bone fishing (we’re not really avid fisher people) but we learned that Long Island is a world class location for this sport. Folks come from all over for bone fishing vacations on the island. If you’re so inclined there were many local excursion options as well as fishing lodges with all inclusive packages.
More “leisurely”activities
Beachcombing
What a heavenly location for beachcombing! Remember, the beaches are virtually deserted, this means no humans have scooped up the best shells and beach glass before you get there. The tidal range is expansive. Once the tide goes out, the exploring begins. Getting lost for hours in your own thoughts and discoveries, it’s a way of life…. I found myself beachcombing for hours, collecting beautiful beach glass which is especially prevalent on certain beaches (ask the locals!).
One of the many special beaches on the island is found at the very southern tip. Gordon’s Beach, an expansive (almost 2 miles long!) stretch of white sand beach, lagoons, coral, and tranquility. Once found, you can stay for hours of swimming, walking, beachcombing etc. Take food and bevvies with you, just because you can. You’ll find the nostalgic Gordon’s Beach Bar and Grill down there and it may be open if you’re lucky. Have a visit and chill out!
Sites worth visiting
Christopher Columbus Monument
At the northern tip, sitting on the highest point of the island, is the relatively new Columbus Monument. The monument was installed to commemorate the Lucayan people, the original inhabitants of Long Island who were eventually wiped out by European colonizers, as well as Columbus’ discovery of the New World.
After a walk up to the monument, be sure to take in the panoramic views of the natural canals surrounding the monument and the clear, turquoise oceans surrounding the island.
Long Island Museum
Just north of Clarence Town in Buckley’s Settlement you’ll find the Long Island Museum. Be prepared for a down home Bahamian history lesson. Don’t expect a formal museum like you may encounter in other parts of the world, just take an hour or so and enjoy the experience.
Exhibits showcase history, customs, homesteading, and handicrafts documenting island life. They’ve done a lovely job of preserving the history and culture of Long Island.
Relaxation Tip: Be sure to take books, crafts, whatever you love to do during a very chill vacation. The island is sleepy. One of our favourite books (recommended to us by a wonderful couple we met from Arkansas- Harry and Tiffany) is entitled “Wind from the Carolinas” by Robert Wilder. It’s an enjoyable historical fiction based on the history of generations of a Bahamas family originating from American loyalists. A perfect book to immerse yourself in your Bahamian vacation!
Long Island Eating
For seafood fans, you’re in the right place! What better way to spend some healthy island time than finding the fishermen and buying directly from them or heading to a bar and watching them crack the conch in front of you then cook it to your specifications? For a sleepy little island, there sure are a some great places to dine out. A few of our favourites are:
North island
In the north end the Stella Maris Resort Club has a very good restaurant and bar with a large patio overlooking nothing but beach and turquoise water. If you’re not staying at the north end, it makes a lovely day trip to go for a drive up, lunch on the patio and a long walk on the amazing beach.
Mid island favourites
Max’s Conch Bar and Grill is low key go-to location. Everybody knows and loves the owners, Gary and Liz. The hexagonal roadside gazebo is located right along the Queen’s Highway in Deadman’s Cay. Pull up a stool or grab a table on the small patio.The beer is cold, the conch salad is made in front of your eyes and the conversation is always lively. There’s complimentary wifi too. This is the heart and soul of Bahamas! Oh yeah, and buy a hat or a t-shirt – you won’t want to forget this gem!
Tiny’s Hurricane Hole is another little gem found mid-island on the leeward side just north of Salt Pond. A typical “toes in the sand” Bahamian beach bar with really good food. A favourite haunt of the boating crowd with easy mooring access. They also have cottage accommodations you may want to check out.
For a slightly finer (by Bahamian standards!) dining experience you will want to have a dinner at Chez Pierre. Situated mid island in Simm’s settlement, following a long and bumpy side road on the leeward side of the island, Chez Pierre’s is worth the drive. It sits on its own beach and also has some cottage accommodations. Decor is open air and simple but don’t let that fool you. Pierre is quite a character and a talented French Canadian chef whose dishes are all delectable. The alcohol service is a full honour bar and the wine selection is very extensive. It’s a great experience!
Tip: Chez Pierre’s is really a one-man show. Be sure to book a reservation and be on time! Even if the island appears quiet your table will be given away if you’re late!
Purchase fresh produce and seafood at the Saturday Farmers Market in McKann’s. This is an island tradition, a great way to meet locals and visitors alike, feel the island vibe and, of course, stock up on locally grown fresh food for the week. Explore some of the local handicrafts as well.
Farmers Market Tip: The market opens at 8am, things sell out quickly, arrive first thing!
Finally, spend an entertaining lunch at Lighthouse Point Restaurant, located at the Flying Fish Marina in Clarence Town and watch the shark feeding frenzies as fishermen clean their catch. It’s a nice restaurant on a “poop deck” (which, to Bahamians, really just means a wharf on the water) with a gorgeous view. Wandering around the small but lovely marina is enjoyable and observing the aggressively sly sharks was absolutely mesmerizing.
Long Islanders are genuinely welcoming to all who are willing to kick back and enjoy a low key “toes in the water” vacation. It may not be for everyone but if you’re ready for some relaxed island living, Long Island might be for you!
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