Thinking of an e-bike tour on the island of Hvar? Consider this beautiful one day round trip route from Hvar to Stari Grad and discover many tranquil hidden gems as you slow travel and enjoy the journey.
You may recognize Hvar as the island of glamourous parties, trendy nightclubs, pristine yachts and expensive restaurants….the town of Hvar is where you’ll find all of that. Apart from the glamour, the island has numerous areas of peace and tranquility, history and culture. If you’d like to discover some hidden gems, consider a day of e-biking. Power bikes make the challenging landscape of this famous island accessible to most everyone.
The Challenge
Experiencing the island of Hvar by bike just feels right, except for the hills! The popular tourist destination of Hvar (town) is located on the south side of the island’s west end. On the seaside to the north lies Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in all of Europe. Between the two, runs an east-west ridge dividing the island. The ridge, on average is well over 400 meters in elevation. Travelling between the two towns, requires a climb (and subsequent descent) along well marked roads, a few paths, and some extremely rewarding treats along the way!
The Gear
“To e-bike or not to e-bike, that is the question”
First, please understand that my husband is a bit of a cycling purist. I’m frequently told “no e-bikes for us, we can muscle through it as long as we have good bikes”. Of course, to find great quality rental bikes, one must find a great shop. Through a bit of reading and inquiring around in town, we definitely found a good shop. Antonio Rent is conveniently tucked behind the main square at the port of Hvar. They rent everything from e-bikes to scooters or cars.
Upon arrival at the shop to reserve our bikes, we described our desired route and requested regular (non e-bikes). Antonio literally (but politely) laughed at us and said “NO”. Thank goodness he did! We reserved two appropriately sized e-bikes for the next day, arrived bright and early to two perfect bikes, batteries fully charged, set up for us and ready to roll. Antonio patiently sat and discussed our desired route, mapped out a few options then sent us off on our own adventure (escorted tours are also available if so desired).
The Route
Covering a total of approximately 70 km we spent an amazing day peddling, coasting and turbo boosting up hills as we covered the island from south (Hvar Town) to north (Stari Grad) and back via the lavender fields and town of Brusje. We avoided the highways, as suggested by Antonio, and rode along secondary roads, with a few little detours and exploration along the way. What a ride! What views!
Hilly Hvar
The inclines were often steep but the e-bikes were game-changers and allowed us to pedal longer than normal on difficult terrain. Getting over the ridge to the island’s north side was close to 10km of up hill, windy, switchback roads. Yikes! E-bikes however, made the journey so much fun. We actually found ourselves laughing out loud at the bursts of speed we could gain while riding uphill!
Favourite finds
Malo Grablje
One of the first unique stops you’ll want to be sure to find en route is the abandoned village of Malo Grablje. Wow! This is a snapshot in time with a unique twist….a functioning delectable restaurant. The village is secluded and difficult to access, many taxi drivers don’t want to transport you there due to the curvy gravel roads leading to the village. In fact, we learned that a taxi will take you near the village entrance, then tell you to walk from where he drops you off! An e-bike is the perfect solution!
The village was deserted in the 1960’s when a vine disease wiped out grape and olive crops and therefore, the livelihoods of most villagers. The inhabitants vacated the village and most moved and settled in the coastal area of Milna in search of fishing opportunities. The structures in the village were left to the elements and to this day they are available to be explored by any who venture their way. It’s quite surreal.
The restaurant
Within the village, along an abandoned road, lies the family run restaurant of Stori Komen. Be sure to make a reservation. Unfortunately we weren’t able to reserve for lunch that day (due to a large group booking) but we were welcomed by the friendly family members (staff) and enjoyed a beverage (local wine is, of course, always offered!) and the fabulous views. Rumour (and reviews) state the food is authentic and delicious. As we relaxed and enjoyed the surroundings, the owner was nearby preparing the traditional slow-cooking meat dishes on the rustic wood burning stove. The aroma was lovely. Absorbing the peaceful location was an absolute treat!
Stari Grad
Following a terribly long, and exhilarating descent down the back side of the mountain ridge, one eventually arrives in the town of Stari Grad, at sea level once again.
Originally settled by Greeks in 348 BC, Stari Grad is one of the oldest towns in Europe. Lying on the island’s north side, at the end of a deep water channel and protected to the north by hills and to the south by the high mountain ridge of Hvar (remember- the need for ebikes!). The ancient part of this adorable town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and worth exploring.
Be sure to lunch and relax at one of many historic restaurants tucked along the side streets. Perhaps visit a local winemaking establishment. Or just sit along the seawall and daydream while watching the activities in the lively harbour.
Departing Stari Grad after a satisfying lunch one must be prepared for another uphill grind. The road is a series of switchbacks and the views to the sea are stunning. As we pedalled, with the help of our turbo boosts, we became increasingly grateful for our e-bikes. Passing other struggling cyclists on traditional bikes makes one feel rather guilty, yet grateful and wise as well!
Lavender fields/ Brusje
On our return journey to Hvar town, as the afternoon sun continued to heat us and our legs were beginning to burn, still high atop the mountainous divide, we rode into the peaceful village of Brusje. Although it is located only 6 km from Hvar Town the energy of this space is the complete antithesis of Hvar. A village surrounded by fields and filled with stone walled houses. On your right, you’ll see the island of Brač, and to your left, you’ll see Vis floating in the distance. The views are stunning.
Within the village roadside vendors can be found selling lavender sachets and oils farmed from the local fields. The aromas are divine. I loved the experience of engaging with the villagers in some sort of cryptic language comprised of smiles, nodding and pointing. My little bounty of lavender products are lovely and once home and using any of these oils always brings back pleasant reminders of that special day in Brusje.
The final stretch
Continuing on the downward roads you’ll come across signs for the Spanish fortress (Fortica) and the Napolean Observatory. Both sit high above the town of Hvar and are absolutely worth stopping at. A little walk around them, and admiring more spectacular views, provide peaceful conclusions prior to your final push into town.
The end of a long day of exercise, fresh island air and some unique adventures is always rewarding. Be sure to take it all in as you slow travel across Hvar and enjoy the ride!
If you’re looking for more cycling trip inspiration, be sure to read our Authentic Apulia, 1 week cycling adventure post. Enjoy!
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