Basque Country
Considering a trip to Basque country in northern Spain? Do it! Here’s an overview of how we experienced Basque Country.
A bit of local information
If you’ve travelled to other Spanish regions, bear in mind this part of Spain is very unique. It’s different in culture, language, geography and climate. Basque Country lies in the western Pyrenees Mountains, straddling the border between France and Spain, on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. It’s a little confusing because much of “Basque region” is in France, while most of the land, industry, and people are in Spain. And many consider Spanish Basque culture to be more independent and feistier than that of the more integrated French Basques.
Basque people are uniquely, well, “Basque”. The language spoken is Basque (or Euskara as it is known locally). It is NOTHING like Spanish! In fact, it’s nothing like any language you’ve likely heard. Basque is thought to be the oldest living language in Europe, whose origins remain unknown. Linguists and historians believe its origins date back to the Neolithic Age, but there is evidence it could be even older. Don’t be alarmed, just go with it. Signage in the region is written in both Spanish and Basque. Depending on where you are, there is plenty of English spoken as well. The friendly Basque inhabitants are boatbuilders, miners and historically successful business people. This area of Spain has extraordinary history as well as monumental business development and wealth. All of which often may be overlooked in the eyes of many tourists to Spain.
San Sebastian- just a glance
The leading tourist destination in Spain’s Basque Country is the beautiful seaside city of San Sebastián. The trendy city known for its cuisine culture and spectacular views, you can easily find dozens of posts and ideas about what to do here. Consider starting with the San Sebastian Tourist information site.
For now, since this is kind of the way we roll, let’s check out some less travelled paths in Basque Country…..
Bilbao
The heart and soul of Basque country! Bilbao is a city steeped in history and culture. Originally a Roman settlement now developed into a center of industry and commerce. Today, the city is a vibrant hub of innovation and energy, while still maintaining a strong connection to its rich heritage.
Eat
Dining in Bilboa is incredible. The city is known for its delicious Basque cuisine, with a range of traditional dishes such as pintxos and bacalao al pil-pil (salted cod cooked in olive oil with garlic and chili peppers). There are 13 Michelin star restaurants within greater Bilboa! Along with San Sebastian (housing 19 Michelin stars), this is a foodie paradise. Of course, you may not want to blow the budget on one of these pricey establishments but, have no fear, there are many ways to enjoy the gastronomy here.
Let’s talk about “pintxos” – pronounced “peenchos”- for a minute. Northern Spain is the homeland of these small snacks typically eaten in bars and restaurants but served everywhere. Always creative with ingredients many of us would never dream of putting together. Fish is, of course, popular in the region but the Basques also love their meat and pork. As a non-meat eater, I was a little fearful when considering some of my pintxo options. Alas, there are so many choices, I was always able to find delicious choices. No two are the same, the creativity is amazing, just be careful, the bread calories can sure creep up on you!
Don’t Miss
Bilbao is famous for its iconic Guggenheim Museum, renowned for its architecture and contemporary art collection. The Guggenheim Bilbao was designed by the famous architect Frank Gehry. The building itself is a stunning work of art peacefully situated along the Nervion River in central Bilboa. The exterior architecture, iconic sculptures and water features are dramatic and were, in our humble opinions, more impressive than the artwork installations on exhibit during our visiting date. If you aren’t too fussed on seeing the art, just spend an hour or so walking around, enjoying the views and having lunch in the café. You’ll love the vibe.
Off the beaten path
Being avid walkers we spent one day hiking from central Bilboa along the Nervion River to the oceanside town of Getxo. An approximately 25km round trip, it was fascinating. We walked through numerous local neighbourhoods, Casco Viejo (old Town) and huge shipyards (remember, they are boat builders)! One completely unexpected experience was crossing the river on the moving/hanging tram-like ferry. What the heck? It’s a UNESCO-listed Industrial Revolution Icon called the Bizkaiko Zubia. This unique structure is used as transportation across the Nervion River to link the towns of Portugalete and Las Arenas without hindering shipping. It is a site to behold and fun to cross the river on! Upon reaching Getxo, where the river empties into the sea, we strolled the oceanfront boardwalk and found a lovely café to eat lunch. There are numerous options for eating and sipping. Pull up a chair and enjoy the people-watching!
Guernica
Prior to visiting this region we’d read the book “Guernica: A Novel” by Dave Boling. Amazing read (in our opinions) describing the destruction of the town of Guernica by the Germans (in partnership with Franco) during the Spanish Civil War, leading up to WWII. Reading it compelled us to visit the lovely town of Guernica after leaving Bilbao (approximately 45 minute drive) into the mountains. A wander through the town was enjoyable but the highlight was the giant-sized replica of Picasso’s depiction of the atrocity (the original is displayed in the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid ). If you’re familiar with the history, this is a really moving site to see.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
Not a “must do” on many travel itineraries but a good location for a stop over as we were heading into the Pyrenees Mountains. It’s the capital city of the region and holds the seat of government for Basque country, so there’s plenty of history. It turned into an absolute highlight for both of us!
Why so? The old town (and it’s very, very old) is lively and beautiful , don’t miss some of the wonderful patios and restaurants built along the old town walls along with the local markets.The star of the show for us was the Cathedral of Santa Maria. We’re not obsessed with churches and cathedrals (although we do enjoy the odd one from time to time) but this is really cool! If you are a fan of Ken Follett’s writing, specifically his Pillars of the Earth trilogy, you will LOVE this church. It provided him with the inspiration and source of information for the novels. For approximately 20 years, the structure has been undergoing a massive restoration which you can experience firsthand! The cathedral tour allows visitors to view and learn about the many deformations and structural issues associated with the almost 1000 year old structure. Viewing the entire cathedral including the subterranean areas currently being restored is amazing! A definite highlight for us!
NAVARRE- The Pyrenees Mountains
Boltana and surrounding area
This is beautiful mountainous area laced with scenery galore and historic villages linked by well-paved highways and extensive mountain tunnels. The town of Boltana is roughly a 2 hour drive from Vitoria-Gasteiz. The scenery through the Pyrenees mountains is stunning. You could, of course, take much longer and stop for hikes, meals and numerous photo ops. Boltana is nestled in a mountain valley. This is just one of the many villages in the Pyrenees where you may choose to stay for a while. We spent 4 days exploring the region and chose Boltana because of an interesting looking Monastery accommodation (Barcelo Monasterio de Boltana).
It was very nice, interesting history, great food and a tranquil atmosphere. Be cautioned that we were there in October and it was a bit chilly. The pool is not open at that time of year. You’re in the mountains so there’s a definite chill in the air morning and night.
As for other towns and accommodations in the area, there are MANY choices! In fact, just a 7km hike or drive along the river from Boltana is the lovely town of Ainsa. Located at the forks of the rivers, Ainsa is a very intact fortified town with a castle/fortress perched on the cliff and an adorable old town square housing accommodations and restaurants. In retrospect, I think it would have been nice to stay in Ainsa. The atmosphere is much livelier and there is the opportunity for any outdoor adventure you can imagine. From river rafting to mountain biking and hiking, you will be surrounded by other like-minded outdoor enthusiasts. Bike rental availability abounds and numerous adventure/outdoor shops are situated in the new part of town. Mountain biking is a BIG deal here. There are trails and cyclists everywhere.
Hiking!
If you love walking, hiking and exploring, this is a region for you! So many choices right outside your door. Right from the door of our hotel in Boltana we found incredible trails. Our current App of choice for hiking is All Trails. It worked well in this region of Spain. We discovered castle ruins (Castillo de Boltana) as well as small, sleepy mountain villages with incredible views and amazing history.
And the list goes on…..
While in the region, however, you may also consider staying near and exploring the National Park region of Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido. For hikers and mountain bikers the area is out of this world. The nearby village of Torla is an outdoor enthusiasts’ paradise. So many choices for every level of hiker, spectacular scenery and complete tranquility. From Boltana it’s approximately a 45 minute drive on twisty, turny mountain highway. We were advised to leave early and get a fresh-made bocadillo (sandwich on a huge crusty bun) at the local café in Boltana on our way to the park. Upon our arrival to the National Park we stopped at the information center in Torla and were well advised on many options for excellent day hikes. We chose the Waterfall (Las Cascades) route. It was challenging but gorgeous and so rewarding. Picnic lunch was spectacular at the top of a mountain plain surrounded by free-roaming cows. Bocadillos never tasted so good! Truly an amazing day!
Rental Car Tips
The northern part of Spain is vast. We prefer to have a rental car when touring this area. Back to the Walkers’ Way of travelling- on our own schedule following our own path! A couple of things to note:
- Rental agencies in Europe are VERY particular about scratches and dents on the vehicles. With many narrow streets and crowded parking areas, dents and scratches are easy to come by! When you pick up a vehicle, do NOT take the agency’s word for any existing issues with the car. Do your own very detailed walk around, use a flashlight on your phone if lighting is poor, and take photos of EVERY mark on the car. When you turn the car in you then have proof (photos and dates) of the marks. We’ve had to pull out the proof more than once, it saved us a lot of potential money!
- Speeding cameras- they are popular in Spain and if you’re speeding through one of them, they DO track you down! Again, this is speaking from experience! Beware of the speed limits and beware of cameras. Signs are often posted on the highways when you’re approaching a camera. You can also rely on GPS. Best practice is to not speed, you’re on vacation. As the Spanish say “tranquilo” (be calm).
- Picking up a car in one city within Spain and dropping it in another is not a problem. You can freely drive to other countries (eg. France) however, the rental agencies do NOT allow vehicles to be dropped off in another country. Be sure to clarify your plans with the agency you’re renting from.
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