Are you searching for a destination that provides a temperate year round climate, welcoming locals and a strong expat infrastructure with an affordable lifestyle all nestled in the high Andes? Cuenca may be for you! Read on to discover unique surprises Cuenca has in store.
About Cuenca
Located high in the Andes at an altitude of 8,300 feet (2650 m) with a population of approximately 450,000 people in the city, Cuenca’s residents enjoy year round spring-like weather. Temperatures rarely surpass 70 F (21 C) nor do they fall below 50 F (10 C), making packing layers of clothing a great option. Remember, you’re in the mountains so the weather changes frequently. Many days have a little rain, with sun and clouds sure to follow.
As a “working from afar” destination Cuenca is in the Central Timezone (same as Chicago), offering an easy way to stay in touch.
Getting there
Cuenca has a nice, convenient airport with regular flights from local destinations. From Quito it’s a short 50 minute flight. Quito, being quite a hub in Latin America, has direct flights from many North American cities.
If you fly through Quito, consider a couple of days layover for a city tour. Remember, you are at the equator (hence the naming of the country “Ecuador”) and, in our opinion, a visit to the Intinan Equator Museum and the Middle of the World Monument (Mitad del Mundo- photo opposite) are really worth seeing. We had a safe and reliable driver named “Washington” during our Quito visits. He spent a few days with us and ensured we saw the city’s highlights, as well as taking many fun photos for us! We’re happy to recommend him. His WhatsApp contact is +593-99-762-5668.
The city
Founded by the Spanish in 1557, Cuenca’s historic centre (El Centro) is a UNESCO protected area due to its rich colonial architecture (see photos below). The buildings and cultural heritage are well preserved because Cuenca wasn’t connected to the rest of Ecuador by paved roads until the 1960’s. Since then, there has been extensive transportation infrastructure developed in the city.
The entire city sits on a plateau surrounded by mountains. Four rivers run through the “cuenca” (which means basin in Spanish). Travelling through the center of the city is the Tomebamba River, which provides gorgeous views from various landmarks and excellent walking trails extending for miles throughout the city. If one were to follow the Tomebamba through Ecuador, it eventually merges with the Amazon River.
Jewel of Cuenca
The beautiful blue-domed New Cathedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion) is known as the symbol of the city. Situated in front of Parque Calderon in the center of the historic district, the blue domes always provide a landmark to identify your location when wandering the streets. Construction of the cathedral began in 1885 and lasted almost a century. Approximately 9,000 people can fit in the building!
Be sure to visit the Cathedral and take the guided tour. It only costs about $3 USD. Along with learning interesting facts about the construction and history, you’ll be taken to all corners of the building, including the choir balcony, the crypts and finally up the 150+ steps on the circular staircase to reach the outdoor plaza located between the towers. Take in views of the city, red tiled roofs visible as far as the eye can see and the beautiful Parque Calderon, surrounded by the colonial buildings comprising the city’s main square.
Getting around
Cuenca is a really great walking city. Most locals walk extensively and we found ourselves to be very comfortable with walking everywhere. When distances were a little far, or our arms were full of groceries, taxis are plentiful and very affordable. The Tranvia, a new light rail system is a great option as well. The rail system meanders throughout the city. Fares are extremely inexpensive (approximately .30 cents per ride).
Walking Tip: Although many sidewalks in El Centro are being repaired, you’ll find the surfaces are made of cobblestone and often uneven and narrow. You may also encounter various holes or gaps which are not well-marked. Don’t expect sympathy (or litigation for liability) if you injure yourself. The Ecuadorian society is not litigious! In other words, “walker beware”, always wear sturdy walking shoes.
Expat living
In 2009, Cuenca was named the world’s number one retirement destination by International Living magazine. This contributed to an influx of thousands of gringos (a common reference to expats). Today the expat population is approximately 10,000. From our perspective, we really enjoy the integration of expats with the locals. Of course, there are neighbourhoods which are mostly inhabited by gringos but the majority of the city is a healthy mix of all inhabitants, from the indigenous peoples to city folks and expats alike.
Cuenca Driver: While in Cuenca we felt fortunate to connect with an excellent driver named Victor. He has been driving, helping, working with expats for over 12 years. A trustworthy man who will help with anything from running errands to informative tours. Victor’s contact information can be found here:
Currency
A number of reasons contribute to the popularity of Cuenca. One interesting factor is that, as of September 2000, Ecuador’s legal tender/currency became the US dollar. This provides a strong sense of security for expats. Interestingly, we also learned a fair bit about expats investing American money in Ecuadorian banks in a safe and secure manner. Of course, these are all details which anyone considering a permanent, or semi-permanent move, would want to thoroughly investigate.
Money Tip: Be sure to bring MANY small ($1 and $5) US bills with you when travelling to Ecuador. With taxis being so inexpensive and produce at markets so affordable you’ll find that most drivers or vendors will not be pleased about making change for larger bills. This is a good problem for travellers!
Eating in Cuenca
Gastronomy galore exists in Cuenca! Along with delicious traditional food, you’ll be shocked by the international cuisine options. Whether it’s fine dining at restaurants such as Mansion Alcazar or Mansion Maltide; casual affordable dining at numerous establishments; delicious coffee and pastries in tranquil courtyards within the city; rooftop patios overlooking the hustle and bustle; or a typical “almuerzo” (fixed price, lunch of traditional Ecuadorian fare); there’s an abundance of choice. We can’t wait to share details about a number of them in an upcoming post!
Accommodations
Depending on your duration of stay in Cuenca and your personal preferences, there are many types of accommodations available.
Location, Location, Location
Whether you choose the city or the suburbs may depend on your interests, access to transportation, etc. Our choice has been the historic center (El Centro). We found this provided plenty of activities, cultural options, restaurants as well as access to easily escape the core, when desired. Of course, there are pros and cons to everything. The one negative of El Centro is the noise. Streets are narrow, motorcycles are common, people can be loud and if you’re located along the Tranvia light rail line, it begins service daily at 6am!
We found two very special places to stay within El Centro and we’re happy to recommend both of them. On our first trip we rented a large condo in the Casas del Nogal property from VRBO Vacation Rentals. Built in 2015 “Nogal” (as the locals call it) is nestled on a main street (Calle Larga). It’s a fairly small, quiet, mostly expat sanctuary located smack dab in the middle of the historic district. Many of the units have views of the Tomebamba River. We really loved it and highly recommend it if you find a unit that suits your needs.
Our second extended stay in Cuenca we opted for the Gran Colombia Suites. A long term stay hotel with 15 apartments of various sizes located right in El Centro. With the TranVia outside your door, the location is extremely convenient. We love the staff at the Gran Colombia. The small front desk has a friendly person willing to help with anything at all hours of the day. Suites are spacious, fully furnished and cleaned regularly, it’s spotless. Of course, nothing is perfect and we have one piece of advice about this property. The external noise can be bothersome (you are in El Centro, after all!). A suggestion is to request a suite that doesn’t overlook the main streets.
Booking Tips: Refer to the information related to accommodation booking and Google searches in our recent Long Island, Bahamas post.
So much to see and do
Where do we begin? There’s so much going on in and around Cuenca. Boredom is never an option! Here are some “teasers” for you but, stay tuned, upcoming posts will detail many of these activities and attractions both within Cuenca proper as well as the beautiful countryside.
Within El Centro one can wander for hours. Popping into local shops and conversing with pleasant locals who are often anxious to practice their english and always helpful to gringos willing to practice Spanish.
Most museums in Cuenca are free! One can spend days exploring and learning plenty of local history and culture. Be sure to also frequent the tranquil cafes often associated with many of the museums.
Visit the flower market (Plaza de las floras) – often! Ecuador is one of the world’s leading exporters of roses. The variety of flowers in the market is overwhelming and the affordability of a fresh bouquet every week is irresistible!
Outdoor Activities
Cuenca’s weather lends itself beautifully to outdoor activities. Walking within the city is wonderful and hiking in the countryside outside of town is spectacular. Hire a driver (it’s very inexpensive) or join an expat group on a hike (there are many of them).
Outdoor Activity Tip: You are high in the Andes. Be sure to bring sunscreen for the UV rays. Dress in layers. Weather fluctuates quickly. It can be hot, cold, sunny and rainy all within hours.
Shopping, Artisans and Panama Hats!
Cuenca’s markets are amazing! Explore the many markets and understand life as a local. Experience affordable local produce and savour the fresh flavours. It’s quite amazing how quickly this way of life can become a healthy habit. Discover the hidden gems within the markets and learn fascinating information about local traditions, food dishes, cultures and more. We found a Guru Walks free walking tour to be super informative. Be sure to select a tour that takes you into the markets.
And then there’s the local artisans and crafters…..Ecuador is rich in textile production and artisans of all types. From the beautiful blankets and knitwear to jewellery and painting. I’ve found many favourite haunts and will be sharing more details in upcoming posts. Let’s just say that by touring the city and the villages you can always find a local artisan who puts a smile on your face and a treasure to take home!
Panama hats originated in Ecuador, yes really! Learn the history of these world famous sombreros by taking a tour of the Homero Ortega factory. The family is a famous manufacturer and designer of hats to the masses and the rich and famous. The tour is fun, the history is fascinating. Be sure to put this on your to-do list!
Live Music
Lately Cuenca has been referred to as the “rising arts capital of Latin America”. A city with multiple universities (at least 5 in Cuenca proper) often has a strong cultural arts presence. Extraordinary options are available for unique live music. Experience the always popular Jazz Society Cafe where the performances are intimate, food is great, talented musicians are amazing, and reservations required.
Another shocking offering is the live symphony orchestra (Cuenca Sinfonica), funded by the government and FREE to all. Enjoy these beautiful (usually weekly) performances in various locations (museums, churches, theatres) alongside other gringos and local families. It’s truly a magical experience.
Don’t forget the always popular Gringo establishments where live musicians are sure to entertain and, rumour has it, you truly never know which former popular musicians may appear. One of the favourite locales is Common Grounds Sports Bar and Grill.
There’s no shortage of live music, open mic venues and laid back fun in this city!
Final Tips for Living Like a Local
There’s an abundance of useful online information about Cuenca but the one source we’ve love to follow is the Cuenca HighLife. It’s a daily online publication and a must for expats living in Cuenca. You’ll find articles related to numerous topics including the city news, government, world issues, personal challenges, real estate and so on. Subscribe to it for free and get an in-depth daily flavour of Cuenca.
You may be surprised where inspiration comes from…..and where your travels lead!
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